How to Identify the Authenticity of Pure Kanjivaram Silk Sarees

Not Every Kanchipuram Is What It Claims to Be

For anyone looking to buy a Kanchipuram silk saree, the biggest worry is this: how do you know it’s real? Because not every saree sold as "Kanchipuram" is made in the town of Kanchipuram. Not every silk saree with zari borders can be called pure Kanchipuram. And with prices running high for genuine pieces, it matters to get what you pay for.

Here’s what makes an authentic Kanchipuram silk saree — and how to spot one.

1. The Quality of Silk

A real Kanchipuram saree is made from pure mulberry silk. This silk is thick, smooth, and holds shape well. It is heavier than blended or synthetic sarees. When you run your fingers over the body, the silk feels rich, not slippery like art silk or mixed threads.

Here's how to check:

Pure silk does not reflect light in a harsh way. Its shine is soft and deep.

When you rub the fabric lightly between your palms you'll notice pure silk will feel warm quickly. Fake silk stays cool.

If the shop allows, burn a loose thread. Pure silk leaves ash and smells like burnt hair. Fake ones melt into a small plastic ball.

2. The Zari Work

Authentic Kanchipuram sarees use real silver zari dipped in gold. This is what gives the pallu and border their weight and rich colour. Cheaper sarees use plastic or imitation zari which feels light, stiff, or overly shiny.

Here's how to check:

Scratch the zari gently with a pin. Real zari reveals a reddish tinge underneath because of the silver content.

If the border and pallu feel very light compared to the body, it may not be genuine zari.

3. The Contrast Borders

One thing that makes Kanchipuram sarees stand out is the “korvai” technique. The body and border are woven separately and then joined together. This join is done by hand, and the line where the two meet is visible if you look closely.

Here's how to check:

Turn the saree over. You should see tiny, neat threads where the body and border meet.

If the saree looks like one continuous piece with no join, it may be powerloom-made or not true korvai.

4. The Weaving Pattern

Kanchipuram sarees carry temple motifs, checks, stripes, peacocks, and floral patterns. These are woven, not printed or embroidered. The reverse side of the saree will show the pattern clearly — not just a faint outline.

How to check:

Flip the saree. If the design is as clear on the back as the front, it’s woven.

Printed or glued patterns will show no threads or design at the back.

5. The Weight

A real Kanchipuram silk saree is heavy — around 600 to 800 grams or more. The pure silk threads and real zari add weight. Lightweight pieces are often mixed or semi-silk.

Here's how to check:

Hold the saree in your hand. It should feel substantial.

Be cautious if a saree that looks richly worked feels unusually light.

6. The Price Factor

No genuine Kanchipuram saree comes cheap. The cost reflects the quality of silk, zari, handwork, and time spent weaving (often weeks for one saree).

How to check:

A starting price for a basic Kanchipuram can be ₹15,000 to ₹20,000. Richer designs, heavy zari, and fine silk can push the price above ₹50,000 or ₹1 lakh.

Very low-priced “Kanchipurams” are usually blends or machine-made.

7. The BIS Silk Mark

The Silk Mark is given by the Silk Board of India to certify pure silk products. Authentic Kanchipuram sarees usually carry this label — either stitched onto the saree or provided as a tag.

How to check:

Look for the “Silk Mark” label on the saree or bill.

If the seller cannot provide it, ask why.

8. The Seller Matters

Where you buy the saree makes a difference. Reputed stores, trusted brands, and direct weaver outlets usually sell genuine Kanchipuram sarees. Roadside stalls, pop-up shops, and unverified online sellers are risky.

Here's how to check:

Always opt for shops that specialise in silk or Kanchipuram sarees and ask the seller for details about the weave, silk source, zari quality. Brands like Mavuri focus on sarees sourced from authentic weaving centres.

9. The Pallu and Body Join

In a true Kanchipuram, the pallu (the part that falls over the shoulder) is often woven separately from the body and joined later. This gives the pallu a different pattern and sometimes texture from the main saree.

How to check:

See if the pallu design sharply differs from the body.

Look at the join area closely on the reverse side.

10. The Longevity Test (if you own one)

Genuine Kanchipuram silk sarees last decades. The colour stays. The zari keeps its shine. The silk does not tear easily. If your old saree has stayed strong over years, it’s likely a real one.

How to check:

See if your mother’s or grandmother’s Kanchipuram sarees still hold shape. Fakes do not last more than 4-5 years.

Why Knowing This Matters

For a buyer spending ₹20,000 or ₹50,000 on a saree, getting the real thing is not just about money. It’s about trust. About wearing something made by real weavers, not factory machines. About owning a saree that can last generations.

A true Kanchipuram saree is not made in a hurry. It’s not flimsy. It is built to stay.

At Mavuri, No Compromise on Authenticity

Mavuri’s Kanchipuram silk sarees come from original weaving hubs. The silk is pure. The zari is tested. The korvai joins are real. Every saree carries the weight and value it should — no cutting corners.

For customers who want honesty in what they wear, this matters. No gimmicks. No mixed blends sold as pure silk. Only sarees that can be passed down — from one wedding to another, from mother to daughter.

The Final Word

A Kanchipuram saree is more than colour and shine. It is skill, time, and hard work. Knowing how to check for the real thing helps you respect the tradition — and keeps you from being fooled by imitations.

So next time you pick a Kanchipuram silk saree — check the silk, the zari, the weight, the weave. And buy from places that care about truth as much as they care about selling.

Some things in life deserve the real deal. A Kanchipuram silk saree is one of them.