Bandhani Sarees

Popular in Rajasthan, Gujarat and some parts of Uttar Pradesh, Bandhani is a distinctive design style that is a cluster of patterns with beautiful colour combinations and alluring twirls. A blend of poetry and painting on fabric, the Sanskrit word 'Banda' means 'tying', and it refers to the traditional Indian tie and dye art that uses impermeable threads to produce beautiful, delicate circular patterns on fabrics. Art of Bandhani is a highly skilled process.

The fabric to be dyed is tied very tightly at different points, forming a pattern, and it is then dyed in different colours. When this tied fabric is dipped for dyeing, the tied part does not catch colour and remains of the same colour as the fabric. As per the historical evidence, the first Bandhani saree was worn at the time of Bana Bhatt's Harshacharita in a royal marriage.

An ancient art, the earliest references to this technique are found in Indus Valley Civilisation records dating back to 4000 B.C. Even paintings in the famed Ajanta caves show Bandhani styles. Jamnagari Bandhani was accorded a G.I. tag in the year 2016.

The practice of designing patterns for textiles is a mark of true luxury. The procedure is very time-consuming, and every element is carefully considered. This skill, also known as bandhej, is done only after the weaving step. The woven material is knotted and coloured, making it a cousin to Ikat.

Process Of Bandhani Tie and Dye

Let's examine the multiple tasks in the production of bandhani sarees.

Firstly, a line is traced around the cloth's intended dying region. Next, a polymer sheet with needle-sized holes is positioned on the fabric's surface, and the pigments are then applied to the cloth. Upon forming the knots, the material is ready for knotting. Finally, the fabric is gradually knotted around the dot.

The cloth is now cleaned to remove colour stains before being immersed in a naphthol solution for precisely five minutes.

The cloth is then dyed with a lighter shade, washed, aired, knotted, and dyed with a darker shade. The material is then allowed to dry in the sunlight for four hours while the fabric below the knots remains uncoloured.

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